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Stage 24

Stage from Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro

km 28,4

Time 07H 30’

Difficulty High

Hostels 26

Available without an Internet connection

León is abandoned to enter Galicia by the parish of O Cebreiro

Information about the stage 24: Stage from Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro

Enlarge map

Points of interest in the stage 24: Stage from Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro

6 Albergue do Brasil - El Roble
5 Albergue Crispeta
4 Albergue Parroquial de Trabadelo
3 Albergue de la Piedra
2 Refugio Ave Fénix de Familia Jato
1 Albergue Municipal Villafranca del Bierzo

The route

Km 0. Villafranca del Bierzo (All Services)

After crossing the street of the Water-Ribadeo of Villafranca del Bierzo, we turn ninety degrees to the left by the slope of Zamora (arriving at Santa Catalina Street), we pass by the monument to the pilgrim, we cross the river Burbia (see section observations to learn about the alternative route of the mountain) and continue through the streets of Concepción and Espiritu Santo. By the latter we leave Villafranca and continue for a kilometer along the arcén of the road, which accompanies the course of the Valcarce River. In this way we reach a pedestrian lane, something similar to a bobsleigh runway and protected by a wall that does not reach the metro height, which advances fitted between the highway A-6 and the N-VI(Km 1,8).

Through this Pilgrim Redil we went under several viaducts of the A-6 (Km 4.1) before taking the diversion to Pereje, at the height of p.k 410 of the N-VI. We crossed with caution the national and the road of access, escorted by the chopsticks of the bank of Valcarce and by large chestnut trees, we reached the first town of the day: Peraxle

Km 5.2. Pereje (Hostel. Bar)

We cross the town - to the left exit is the hostel - to resume the pedestrian lane. One kilometer and six hundred meters later is the rest area of Trabadelo (Km 6,9) and one kilometer higher we cross the N-VI again to take the diversion to this population. Once again flanked by the riverside forest of the Valcarce, with proud chestnut trees, we moved to Trabadelo, with the necessary infrastructure to stop on the Camino.

Km 9.7. Trabadelo (Hostels. Bar. Store. Pharmacy)

We left the population, leaving to the right the diversion to Pradela and Sotelo, and this time we did not return immediately to our bobsleigh runway, but we walked about a kilometer and a half on a paved runway, above the national one. Overcome a stream that feeds the Valcarce River (Km 10.5) we return to the reunion of the pedestrian lane, on the edge of the N-VI. One kilometer and seven hundred meters more of tedious rail we are in La Portela de Valcarce, also with some service.

Km 13.7. La Portela de Valcarce (Hostel. Bars. Basic store. ATM)

After La Portela, barely 300 meters traveled in the company of the N-VI, we took the diversion to Ambasmestas and Vega de Valcarce. First we arrived at Ambasmestas, confluence of the Balboa and Valcarce rivers.

Km 14.9. Ambasmestas (Hostel. Bars. Store)

In early 2017, Yaneth Gómez opened at the exit of Ambasmestas the Colamed El Barullo, a cafeteria with a small supermarket. Afterwards we entered Vega de Valcarce, a service population of the valley with its church of la Magdalena.

Km 16.5. Vega de Valcarce (All Services)

We are now heading to Ruitelan. At this stage we have only gained 171 metres of altitude. The base of the port is nearby.

Km 18.6. Ruitelán (Hostel. Bars)

At the exit of Ruitelán the slope worsens a little, only a small snack of what will come next. Something higher up, on the left, we take the detour that goes down to The Smiths. Before we reach this small core, we cross the Valcarce River through a stone bridge.

Km 20.1. Las Herrerías (Hostels. Store. Bars)

We cross the village to the Hospital district (Km 20,8), a continuation of the previous nucleus that takes its name from the old hospital for English pilgrims. Leaving this set of houses begins the real ascension to O Cebreiro.

A hard repecho by asphalt, as it came out of nowhere, of almost a kilometer invites us to put forward the strategy, which will be to slow down, shorten the steps and tone the breath. Under these circumstances, the weight of the backpack plays a determining role. In full climb, walkers must take the path that is born to the left of the paved runway. Cyclists must continue forward by asphalt (Km 22).

On the path, the slope gives us a short respite until it crosses the Refoxo stream and catches us again by a bleak road that ascends steadily under the canopy of oak and oak leaves. This setting brings us closer to La Faba -at the entrance there is a diversion to the hostel. In the village there is a bar and a shop with everything needed to recover lost forces.

Km 23,5. La Faba (Hostels. Bar. Store)

After La Faba, we progressively abandoned the threshold to go out to an open grassland area overlooking the Atlantic forests. The large panoramic views influence the perception of the slope, which becomes milder until reaching the last village of León on the Camino de Santiago Francés: Laguna de Castilla.

Km 25.9. Laguna de Castilla (Hostel and Bar)

About 700 meters above, the first Jacobean cairn appears with distance signs. It is 152.5 and bears the inscription Os Santos (from Teso dos Santos). Four hundred meters later the Camino departs from León, the province with more kilometers of the French Way: no less than 214.4. Finally, let us take Galicia and, in particular, Lugo. The queen stage is about to conclude (Km 27). Fatigued, we solved the last kilometer to the prerogative church of Santa Maria la Real, which welcomes O Cebreiro. The pilgrim hostel, the first of the Xunta de Galicia, is located at the other end of this lucense parish.

Km 28.4. O Cebreiro (Hostel. Rural Houses and Pensions. Bars. Store)

The difficulties

Remarks

Alternative route ‘from the mountain’ from Villafranca to Trabadelo:In addition to
the traditional itinerary there is an alternative and marked route covering the first stretch of 10 kilometers from Villafranca del Bierzo to Trabadelo, in the middle of which is the hostel Lamas. The description is as follows: after passing the pilgrim's monument, we crossed the bridge of the Burbia River and continued right through Pradela Street. We climb for 8 kilometers along the hillside of the mountain, with stunning views of El Bierzo. Passing through the pine groves and chestnut sotos hundreds we will reach the town of Pradela. The people see it on the right, but it is not necessary to enter if they do not want to use any of their services. If we enter Pradela, after the church we meet the hostel Lamas. We turn left and leave the town towards Trabadelo, which is located three kilometers later. In this population we will meet with the official Camino.
100% of the locations of the stage offer at least one hostel of pilgrims, except in winter, so you can divide the day at our will. All have a bar and the population with the most services is Vega de Valcarce.
From July 12, 2021 and for the moment for a year since the date the Guardia Civil prohibits the passage through the former N-VI National between Las Herrerías and Piedrafita de O´Cebreiro, this section is frequented mainly by cyclists.
A kilometer and a half before we reach O`Cebreiro we enter Galicia, the last Autonomous Community that we are going to cross in our pilgrimage, the crossing of that border is marked with a great pin that is usually vandalized with painted of all kinds.
In the spiritual chapter it is important to refer to "the miracle of O`Cebreiro".
Back in the year 1300 when a villager of Barja Mayor, ignoring the temporal one, approached the parish of O´Cebreiro, the cleric who was giving Mass was surprised to see the villager because he did not wait for anyone due to the temporal one and recriminated his presence there only to see a piece of bread and a glass of wine, a moment in which the bread became the flesh.
Also to highlight the altruistic work that is carried out today in the parish of Santa María del Cebreiro, especially by the Franciscan Paco Castro Miramontes, who did not hesitate to help as much as possible and spiritually advise every pilgrim that approaches there. If you are lucky enough to find him there do not hesitate to have a minimal talk with him, for his words will fill you with energy and wisdom for the rest of the pilgrimage.

In images

What to see, what to do

COMARCA DE OS ANCARESLa
region of Os Ancares is nestled between León and Galicia and is an obligatory step of the twenty-fourth stage of the Camino de Santiago Francés. It is a natural reserve with its mountainous landscape, of strong slopes, in which dwells a population of more Galician customs than Castilian. The pallozas - traditional houses with an elliptical ceiling - have been heirs of the pre-Roman tribes that inhabited these lands and left important vestiges.
PEREJE:Small
town of the region of Os Ancares, belonging to the municipality of Trabadelo, which is surrounded by old chestnuts. It was the subject of a sound litigation that confronted the cluniacenses of Santa María de Cruñego, of Villafranca, and the monks of Aurillac who ruled the Cebreiro. Alfonso IX of León, Queen Mrs. Urraca and Urban Pope II were involved in it. The cause was that the abbot of O Cebreiro raised a church and a hospital of pilgrims in Pereje, a town that was within the cluniacense administration of Villafranca del Bierzo.
TRABADELO:At
the entrance of Trabadelo the dense chestnut sotos can be seen. During the autumn chestnut collection is one of the largest and most fruitful activities of the neighbours. The municipality is made up by Trabadelo, Pereje, Moral de Valcarce, Parada de Soto, Pradela, San Fiz do Seo, Sotelo, Sotoparada and Villar de Corrales. It has hostels, several rural houses and bars.
LA PORTELA DE VALCARCE:The
name alludes to the portazgo that the feudal lords had to pay the travelers crossing the valley. In 1702, Alfonso VI tried to remove him but did not disappear until later years. The church of St. John the Baptist belongs to the popular baroque style and dates from the 17th and 18th centuries. It's rectangular, it has a single nave and spaghetti. In the town, on the banks of the Valcarce River, a blacksmith from the 19th century is still preserved.
AMBASMESTAS:The
church of Nuestra Señora del Carmen is rectangular and a single nave and houses a baroque altarpiece. A 19th-century haystack is preserved in two heights and covered by slabs.
VEGA DE VALCARCE:Vega
de Valcarce is the largest town in the valley. The municipality comprises 23 localities, including the Jacobs Portela de Valcarce, Ambasmestas, Ruitelán, Herrerías, La Faba and Laguna de Castilla. On a hill the castle of Sarracín rises, which is in ruins and dates from the 15th and 16th centuries. Attributed to the Templar knights, it may be preceded by another defensive construction of the 10th century. The church of the Magdalene, so present on the Camino, as a patron of sinners and penitents, testifies to the pilgrim characteristic of the villa. Buildings and reforms of the seventeenth, nineteenth and twentieth centuries are cited in the building. It is of a single nave, rectangular plan and bell tower. Vega de Valcarce offers complete services for the pilgrim: bakery, grocery stores, ATMs and bars where meals are served.
RUITELÁN:The
parish church is consecrated to St. John the Baptist (13th to 17th centuries). In the skirt of the mountain, on the outskirts of Ruitelán, is the chapel of San Froilán, where it is said that he lived retired this hermit lucense (833-905), which domesticated a wolf when he attacked him and later became bishop of León. He's currently a Lugo patron.
THE HARDWARE:This
small core owes its name to the four hardware factories where iron and other metals worked. Also in A Casa do Ferreiro you can see an old restored forge. As a continuation of Herrerías, the Hospital district takes its name from an old hospital created in 1178 for the English pilgrims. The church of St. Julian's is a baroque in the 18th century.
LA FABA:The
Church of San Andres, in turn Renaissance and Baroque, is one nave in two sections and has a baroque altarpiece.
LAGUNA DE CASTILLA:In
the last town of Castilla y León we can see three 18th-century Hórges although not well preserved. Its plant is square, of Asturian type. In the Teso de los Santos (Mojón 152.5), past La Laguna, there was a hermitage that marked the boundary between León and Lugo.
O CEBREIRO:O Cebreiro is a parish of the Concello de Pedrafita do Cebreiro. Does anyone remember the name of the Lucense port of Pedrafita, the one that covers all the winters and that makes chains necessary? It is the same port that pilgrims go up by roads. O Cebreiro is a town of stone, probably of Prerrromano origin, and portal of Galicia by the province of Lugo. It is another mythical place of the Camino and crown, 1,300 meters high the Galician-Leonese massif. Everything in this place is magical and mysterious: the paddles, the wind, the fog. It is one of the first enclaves that welcomed the pilgrims on their route to Santiago. It stands out the simple and primitive temple of Santa Maria la Real, from the 9th and 10th centuries. On the right of the main altar is the chapel of the Holy Miracle, where is the image of the Virgin of the Remedies (Santa Maria la Real). On the altar lies the tomb of Don Elías Valiña, pastor of O Cebreiro from 1959 until his death in 1989, tireless impeller of the Camino and creator of the yellow arrow. The village began to be restored in the mid-60s and also the pallozas: old pre-Roman homes of circular or oval plan formed by stone walls and rye stems ceiling. One of the pallets houses an ethnographic museum. Rural houses, lodgings, bars, mesons and souvenir shops have turned O Cebreiro into a theme park of high-rise villages.